I can honestly say if it wasn’t for you and Helen making these amazing videos I would probably of ended up with some YouTube screwed together thing! Here's a free workbench plan that will build you a simple but sturdy workbench in just one day. I have a local supplier (west coast USA) who stocks rough 3″ Douglas Fir in up to 14″ widths, so I’m planning around that availability. But I suspect your hand tool work is probably better than you give yourself credit for. If you are going to plane the top see the nail and you take a good loooooooong look at it (Clue # 1 ) while saying to yourself, “I should be ok, it’s deep enough.” (Clue # 2) Do yourself a favor and go get your nailset. ).The best trick I was ever shown in sawing was to maintain the polish on the blade. The interesting this about this bench is the front apron is under 1″ thick and so far all of the holdfasts have worked fine in it. The English bench, which shows up in Peter Nicholson’s “Mechanic’s Companion” (1831), is essentially a torsion box in design. There isn’t a ton of different storage options for it. I don’t believe you’ll have any trouble in your bench top.

This bench layout lets you quickly fold out, slide out and pivot into position all the tools and work areas you need. The wood I can get hold of is around 2″, but with planing etc it’ll probably take it to around 1 3/4″, which is minimum recommended.Based on your experience with holdfasts do you think 1 3/4″ is sufficient?Good question. Check on your emails, it’ll be on its way. Is more aesthetics or purpose?Kerry, that’s a really good question. The design here is an English-style workbench that’s sized for an apartment or small shop at 6′ long. More practise will certainly help so it would be a good idea to try out your skills with one of the techniques demonstrated by Richard on just a scrap piece of wood and see how you get on. Many manufacturers will say that the maximum thickness should be 4″ and it’s these thicker tops that are more problematic, most will need work to get them to hold well.Thanks for this question and response. Have you had any problems with the boards flexing while working ? But on a bench like this we are relying heavily on those deep aprons to add stiffness, and of course support bearers underneath the top to get rid of any bounce. The English workbench design can make a lovely fast build – partially due to the lovely wide boards used in the construction. If you use an old second hand handsaw, then fine steel wool and 600 grit paper are a boon.

– 6 lengths of 10″ x 2″ (250mm x 50mm) or 8″ x 2″ (200mm x 50mm) at the length required for your benchIf you need speed then you can opt for pre-planed material instead.Lifetime access to the full series (8 online Chapters + PDF plans)Throughout the videos we build with minimal and basic hand tools to focus on mastering our skills with this essential kit.And you don’t need a workbench to build a workbench – we build off a pair of sturdy trestles.This Series includes the detailed build of a traditional face vice and planing stop.The vice build requires only a single vice screw and nut (can be metal or wooden), along with some generic lag screws for fixing.An alternate vice can be installed in this bench if you have a preference.Bench dogs, holfasts and stops can all be used within this versatile and sturdy bench.We cover many tips and tricks for improving your hand tool woodworking.We also provide a video on how to choose the best length, width & height for your build.Building a workbench is a big commitment.


But these bring their own concerns with regards to timber movement, so it’s a great example of how to allocate for movement within the build process.You can loose sleep measuring moisture content and wait for years for things to acclimatise, but often the more you fret, the more it seems to disobey you.It could be a warped board that’s ruined your most pristine efforts at cutting dovetails before you could get the glue on.Or a beautifully polished top that you’ve had a fight with to smooth, and now you’re watching it split apart before your very eyes.But one thing I’ve always found is that the more you approach this problem with fine instruments – the type used by an engineer, the more likely you are to get a headache.When gluing the aprons on to the English workbench the glue is only applied to the top of the joint. Now a days we tend to call this the French bench, mainly due to recent trends in workbench designs.I don’t think the evolution of workbench designs was clear cut or defined so regionally, but there are without a doubt some features that were favoured only in particular areas.I’ve seen countless workbenches, some very early, that you could easily mistake for the ’French’ design even though this certainly wasn’t their origin.So the French workbench remained simple.

Could you explain how to practically use dogs with the tail vice?Hi Jason, That’s a good question and well observed. Some sound advice yet again.I did in fact listen and read at the same time and I was surprised at how few instances there was any difference at all. It’s made from construction lumber and uses a basic crochet and holdfasts for workholding. Included in the free workbench plan is a blueprint, step-by-step building instructions, a list of tools and materials needed, as well as user comments.

We teach how to approach the hand planning in the most efficient manner.


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