Do not use waterborne polyurethane, as it may not bind readily to the MDF’s surface. That's what I did and it works fine. Easy Peasy and this project cost us NOTHING. Wolf. However, if you have a project in a high-humidity area, you must use or create water-resistant MDF, or the material will start to disintegrate if consistently exposed to water and damp conditions.While it should never be used outdoors or in an application where it’s regularly exposed to water, there are two approaches to “waterproofing” MDF so it can withstand moisture in high humidity areas: use ure Resistant (MR) MDF or make it water-resistant yourself.

I used a 3/4" sheet of MDF as the very top of my work table I just built. Thanks! I’ve painted a few laminate and MDF pieces in the past and so I thought I would write a blog and give you a few pointers when painting over this type of surface.

But the second and third coat go MUCH faster than the first. Also, what kind of varnish?

Allow 30-45 minutes for the polyurethane to properly dry and add a second coat in the same manner as the first …

The secret is to sand your piece down prior to painting and a good roller will help too!Now, a question of what to use for protection. I picked a large roller because it’s what we had on hand and I wanted this whole project to cost us nothing. Made from heat-pressed recycled wood fibers and resin, it is available in laminate, veneer and paint finishes, is very strong, easy to work with, and is less likely to tear and chip. If so, easy-peasy. I’ve painted a few laminate and MDF pieces in the past and so I thought I would write a blog and give you a few pointers when painting over this type of surface.

On my last build I used clear gloss polyurethane finish to seal the MDF, as I had a half empty can I wanted to use up.

Is it ok to use polyurethane finish on MDF?

Compared to the standard MDF, moisture-resistant MDF is still easy to sand and mill, takes well to most adhesives, veneers and paints, but is made with a moisture-repellent resin. I must admit, it isn’t as easy as painting over wood and there are a few extra steps. Thanks! Some items are better suited to MDF than others.

Someday we will be changing out the knobs, but we were out of spray paint and didn’t want to cough up the money for new knobs right now, so I had these cute librarian knobs in storage so I put them on.I love it. MDF should always be sealed to prevent moisture penetration. Naphtha evaporates much faster than mineral spirits or turpentine. "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches." To paint it, you do indeed need 'primer', and do yourself a favour by using quick-dry which will be water-based. Also, if you’re not a patient person like myself, remember how much you’re saving in this process.Second, grab your brush and paint over all the hard to reach places that your roller can’t get to. I did all my tops that way. In our home we do not celebrate Halloween. Once I’ve done this, I like to roll over flat areas again so that there is MINIMAL brush strokes in my project.Here’s what the dresser looked like once the first coat was completely on. A search on the internet for garage cabinets turns up quite a few hits for "polyurethane coated MDF". MDF is made up of wooden fibres, which have been compressed and bonded together with resin under high heat and pressure. Obsessed & Proud of It. One thing I would probably have and will do different, on my main work bench that cathes all the messy work (paint, stain, etc.) This layer should take about four hours to dry.Step three is your final layer of paint or sealant; allow a drying time of at least three days to make the MDF moisture-resistant. In the article they suggest sealing it with a couple coats of poyurethane to reduce warping.

are you sanding or 00 steel wooling between coats? Comment. Then once I was done, I wiped the entire dresser down with an old rag, so there wouldn’t be particles of dust in the finish.Next, you want to grab your roller. I am curious what other people here think of this. If you skip it, the paint will have a hard time adhering to the surface & could bubble. 11-24-2009, 01:14 … Can you provide any details on what you did, and the results?

The poly finish should be fairly durable but will continue to soak into the MDF quite a bit I think.

If you use a paint brush, know that if the sunlight hits your piece, you *might* see brush strokes in the surface.I left an hour between each coat of paint and Behr is an extremely fast drying paint.

MDF primer will almost certainly be opaque white, so only suitable if you want to paint it afterwards as opposed to clear varnish.

You will need to start with a latex primer, or a primer designed specifically for MDF. MDF is a strong building material but cannot be exposed to moisture of any kind. It takes off some of the gloss and will  make the actual painting process MUCH easier & faster.The sanding process probably took me all of 15 minutes. MDF is created by adding glue to wood chips under intense pressure created by hydraulic rams. are you sanding or 00 steel wooling between coats?

Let the primer dry for six hours.Step two is to apply the sealant or water-resistant paint, using a 3/8-inch roller. Polyurethane on MDF? For example, the key disadvantage of using MDF is that it doesn't react well to moisture or liquids. But, like all varnishes, polyurethane dries in two steps.

I am going to get some paint and try it. If there a primer I should have used to seal the MDF with?

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